Matching the Fence to the Job

Small paddocks are rarely one-size-fits-all. A pony paddock, a few ewes with lambs, and a small flock of hens each demand something different from a boundary. Before you buy a single post, walk your land and ask what the fence must actually do. Is it keeping animals in, or keeping others out? Does it need to look tidy beside a garden, or simply be cheap and quick to move? On a smallholding, the best fencing is usually a mix: permanent stock netting for the perimeter, electric tape for rotational grazing, and a short run of post and rail where appearances matter. This guide compares the three main options, then looks at materials and gates so you can plan a system that works for years rather than months.

Post and Rail: Traditional Looks, Solid Boundaries

Post and rail is the classic smallholding fence. It suits boundaries that need to be seen and trusted, such as alongside a road, a footpath, or a farmhouse garden. A three-rail fence with posts at 1.8m to 2.4m centres will hold most horses and cattle, though sheep and goats will slip through the gaps unless you add stock netting or electric tape. Use treated timber – tanalised softwood is the usual choice – and set posts at least 60cm into the ground, deeper on soft ground. Rails are typically 3.6m long, so post spacing often follows that. Half-round posts look rustic but square sawn posts are easier to fix rails to. Fix rails with galvanised nails or coach screws, not wire, which cuts into the timber. Post and rail is expensive and time-consuming to install, and horses can chew it. Its main advantage is durability and appearance: a well-built post and rail fence can last 15 to 20 years with occasional rail replacement.

Electric Tape: Flexible and Cost-Effective

For small paddocks, electric tape is the workhorse of rotational grazing. It is lightweight, cheap to buy, and quick to move, which makes it ideal for strip grazing or resting land. Tape is more visible than wire, so animals respect it and are less likely to run through it. Use a mains energiser if you have power nearby; battery or solar units work well in remote fields but need checking. A single strand at 60cm to 90cm high will contain horses and cattle once trained. Sheep need a lower strand, around 30cm, or a netting version. Goats are notoriously hard to fence and often need two or three strands plus a solid boundary. Plastic posts with a foot pedal are easy to move, but they snap in frost and can be pushed over by a scratching pony. For a more permanent electric line, use wooden posts with insulators and a top strand of tape or braided rope. Always keep the fence clear of grass and check the voltage with a tester – anything below 3,000 volts on a tape fence is asking for trouble.

Stock Netting: Secure for Smaller Stock

Stock netting – sometimes called sheep netting or field fence – is the go-to for keeping sheep, lambs, and poultry safe. It is a woven wire mesh with horizontal and vertical wires, usually 80cm to 120cm high. The best netting has smaller mesh at the bottom (often 10cm x 10cm or less) to stop lambs pushing through, and larger mesh higher up. It needs a solid framework: strained tightly between stout corner posts and supported by intermediate posts every 3m to 4m. A top rail or a strand of barbed wire can deter climbing. Netting is less visible than post and rail and can sag if not tensioned properly. Use galvanised wire to resist rust, and always wear gloves when handling it. For pigs, you need a stronger, taller netting or electric strands, as they will root under and lift it. For rabbits and hares, add a buried skirt of smaller mesh.

Choosing Durable Materials

The lifespan of any fence comes down to materials and groundwork. Timber posts should be treated to Use Class 4 for ground contact. Tanalised timber is pressure-treated and will last far longer than dip-treated. For corners and gateposts, use larger diameter posts – 150mm to 200mm – and brace them with a diagonal or horizontal stay. Strainers need to be set in concrete or well rammed with rubble. Electric fence posts should be UV-stabilised, and tape should be at least 20mm wide with several strands of conductive wire. Insulators should be plastic, not ceramic, which cracks. Netting staples should be galvanised and long enough to hold without splitting the post. Buy the best you can afford: a cheap fence that fails in two years costs more in time and animal escapes than a good one that lasts a decade.

Planning Gates for Easy Movement

Gates are where most fencing systems fall down. Plan them before you dig any holes. A gate should be wide enough for what you move: 3m for a small tractor or trailer, 3.6m for larger machinery, and at least 1.2m for a person with a wheelbarrow. Hang gates on sturdy posts set in concrete, with the hinge post slightly larger. Adjustable hinges let you fine-tune the swing as the gate settles. Fit a good latch – a spring-loaded catch or a Suffolk latch – and consider a second catch if animals learn to open it. Position gates at the corner of a field, never in the middle of a straight run, so you can funnel animals easily. If you have several paddocks, a central handling area with gates opening into each paddock saves endless walking. Always hang gates so they swing into the field or yard, away from a road. A well-planned gate turns a chore into a two-minute job.